Old Town parking structures, angled bays on Scottsdale Road and narrow garage ramps produce a steady supply of scraped wheels. Most of it is cosmetic and most of it is fixable. Some of it is not, and that distinction is worth understanding before you pay anyone.
Cosmetic curb rash
The usual damage is a band of gouging around the outer lip where the wheel has ground along concrete. The metal is scraped, not deformed. That is reprofiled, refinished and recoated, and afterwards there is nothing to find. See wheel repair.
Finish type matters more than people expect. A painted wheel, a machined face with a clear coat over it, a satin finish and a polished lip all behave differently and are not interchangeable. A machined face in particular has fine concentric cutting marks that have to be recreated, not just sprayed over.
When the answer is no
A crack in the barrel or the spoke area is a structural fault. Welding a wheel that carries a car at freeway speed is not something to be casual about, and our answer on a cracked wheel is usually that it should be replaced. You will get that answer even though it means we do not do the job.
Buckles are the other case. A wheel can be straightened, but a wheel that has been straightened once and buckled again has usually work-hardened, and the second repair does not last.
Why it is worth doing at all
On a leased car it is straightforward: wheel damage is one of the most reliably charged items at return, and refinishing four wheels is normally well under what the lease company bills for them.
On an owned car it is cosmetic, and that is a legitimate reason on its own — but it is your money and we will not pretend otherwise. Bring the car by and you will get a straight answer on each wheel, including the ones that do not need doing.